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Kemah dining experience celebrates Native American foods – Houston Public Media

Chef David Skinner keeps a snake gourd plant in his kitchen garden.

Jacobs

Chef David Skinner keeps a snake gourd plant in his kitchen garden.

60% of the world’s diet today consists of foods that originated in the Americas. We’re talking potatoes, sweet potatoes, peppers, chilies, tomatoes, corn, beans, squash, peanuts, wild rice, pineapple, avocado, papaya, pecans, blueberries, cranberries, sunflowers and chocolate, thanks to the innovation and persistence of indigenous farmers and seed savers.

What does Houston have to do with it? Well, there are over 150 Native American groups living in the greater Houston area, and many of them continue cultivation here in Houston in their daily lives. One community member stands out for his efforts – that is Choctaw chef David Skinner, who has been delighting guests in Kemah for over a decade and has enjoyed international recognition.

Choctaw chef David Skinner grew up eating many of these foods straight from his grandmother’s garden. At his new restaurant Ishtia in Kemah, he now showcases indigenous tradition and innovation – offering modern interpretations of indigenous foods from North and South America. Skinner is also co-owner of th_prsrv (The Preserve) with James Beard Award-winning chef Benchawan Jabthong Painter.

In the audio above, Houston Matters producer Mincho Jacob visits a local garden tended by a Mayan Q’eqchi’ family, then heads down to the Kemah Boardwalk to speak with Chef Skinner about his thoughts on displacement and restoring the foodways of Indigenous communities this International Day of the World’s Indigenous Peoples.

American Black Nightshade

Jacobs

The plant, known in Q’eqchi’ as ichaj or in English as American Black Nightshade, is a staple food of the Mayan Q’eqchi’ and grows wild in the Houston area.

By Jasper

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