“I hope you’re starving, because that’s probably the best way to enjoy Chinatown,” says Aaron Friedman, my guide, on my first night in San Francisco. After a whirlwind sunset sail on the Pacific Ocean under the Golden Gate Bridge, I was excited to see how the country’s oldest Chinatown would satisfy my appetite.
I needn’t have worried. From legendary dishes prepared by a chef who has cooked for Chinese presidents to cozy dumpling joints, this 150-year-old Chinese immigrant hangout has everything from fine dining to inexpensive eateries, bakeries, shops and bars.
Photo: Max Whittaker
The iconic Peking duck
Entering through the iconic green-tiled Dragon Gate, I was immediately captivated by the red lanterns, pagoda-like buildings and ornate lamp posts. My first stop was Z&Y Peking Duck, an award-winning restaurant known for its Peking duck. Chef Lijun Han worked his magic, presenting the dish with perfectly crispy skin – his signature feature. It is prepared over 48 hours and served tableside with rice paper wrappers and sweet bean sauce. Honestly, I couldn’t get enough of it. Han, the owner of the restaurant, previously served high-ranking politicians and diplomats at the Chinese consulate.
Photo: Max Whittaker
I also tried the Peking duck with caviar – a seemingly odd combination that created an explosion of flavours. Chinatown is clearly evolving, putting a modern twist on classic dishes. I also loved the xiao long bao – soupy dumplings that burst in your mouth – and for those who can handle heat, there was a fiery chicken dish with explosive chilli peppers.
Photo: Max Whittaker
The next day, I took a food walking tour of different neighborhoods, with the last stop being Chinatown. Even though I had been eating pizza and tacos all day, the smell of dim sum whetted my appetite again.
From Dim Sum and Fortune Cookies to Mai Tais
When I walked into House of Dim Sum, I was impressed by the atmosphere of this popular eatery. Their standout feature: homemade Cantonese-style dim sum and steamed buns. The shrimp dumplings were juicy, the pork buns were flavorful, and I couldn’t get enough of their pork dumplings. They open at 6:45 a.m. as dim sum is a popular breakfast dish.
Photo: Max Whittaker
Photo: Max Whittaker
Next door, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory – a small shop that’s been in operation since 1962 – plays a key role in making these cookies a staple in Chinese restaurants across the U.S. Using an ancient, secret recipe, they produce up to 10,000 fortune cookies a day – all by hand.
Photo: Pallavi Pasricha
I went inside to experience the magic for myself. The sweet scent of vanilla filled the air as an old machine rolled out the cookies. A woman expertly placed the lucky slip inside and shaped each cookie with a metal rod. I enjoyed a few of these, and although I don’t remember my prediction, it was a wonderful experience to witness the process and see people eagerly breaking open their cookies. For a small fee, you can even customize your prediction – something I wish I could do in real life.
Photo: Pallavi Pasricha
The bars in Chinatown are also worth a visit, especially the dives. Li Po, which celebrates its centenary in 2037, is a local favorite. The Mai Tai, a cocktail with cult status that includes celebrities such as Anthony Bourdain, is a must-try. Made from Chinese wine, rum and pineapple juice, this sweet but strong drink packs a punch.
On the way back, I realized that Chinatown’s charm lies in its vibrant energy and diverse flavors – from the sharp taste of garlic in an alley to the delicate scents wafting from the pastry shops. This is indeed a foodie’s paradise in San Francisco’s most dynamic neighborhood.
About the author: The joy of discovering new places has kept Pallavi Pasricha travelling for more than 20 years and taken her to over 30 countries. For her, a destination is much more than just its sights – it is a complex mix of hidden gems, the stories of its people and the unique flavours of its local cuisine. For her, every quiet lane, bustling market and traditional dish tells a story that adds depth to the experience. She finds joy in discovering lesser-known places that reveal the true character of a place.
