Diners and Dives – We love the restaurant of the 20th century

This week’s group consisted, from left, of gardeners Emily Kresca, Ginger Lilly and Jacob Macke, Shari Benyousky and Kris Williams. Photo by Kris Williams.

By Shari Benyousky
Guest columnist

Column Note: In the 66th column of the Diners and Dives series, some members of the Warsaw Breakfast Optimist Club explore Milford.

MILFORD — In 1973, Bob Brooks was enjoying his usual breakfast at a diner at the intersection of US 6 and SR15 at 19964 US 6 Milford. Little did he know that this ordinary day would change their lives forever. As he was enjoying his meal, the diner’s owner, Eldon Beer, approached him with a life-changing offer: “Bob, would you be interested in buying this place?”

Bob Brooks, owner of 20th Century Restaurant, is pictured with his daughter Delaney holding his grandson Varian and son Jason Brooks. Photo provided by Jason Brooks.

Brooks had been a butcher at Campbell’s Grocery in Milford and a cook in the Army at Fort Knox, and his wife Ann had worked as a car saleswoman in college. So they knew a little about food, but they had their two young sons to think about. Nevertheless, Bob and Ann started a restaurant on January 1, 1974. Fifty years later, in 2024, Bob can still be found in a booth enjoying the food his son Jason cooks.

On the corner of 20th Century you’ll find cornfields, a BP gas station, rows of tractors at the Polk Auction Company, a trucking company and a restaurant, a Midwest gem with small-town charm and great food. And pie! Lots of pie. 20th Century Restaurant notes that “truckers are welcome” and serves “a meal so inexpensive you can almost pay for it with coin.”

Growing up hungry

Most of the dishes at the 20th Century Restaurant cost less than $15, and there are often truckers and farmers sitting around the tables.

Chef Jason told me that their best-selling breakfast by far is “The Haystack,” two rolls topped with eggs and covered in gravy, bacon and cheese. He said, “I don’t know how people can eat that and then go back to work. They’re huge! I usually need a nap after eating one.”

Cultivating the wildcards

Our amazing waitress, Sue Gantt, has worked at 20th Century for over twelve years. “They line up and wait for us when we open at 6,” she told me, pouring me a cup of coffee. “It gets busy around 11:30, and by dinnertime it’s pretty normal again.” She explained the specials to our three wildcards: Jacob Mackey of Chapman Lake Nursery (native plants); Ginger Lily, the new gardener at Center Lake Park Garden in Warsaw; and Emily Kresca, an agricultural and natural resources lecturer at the Purdue Extension Office.

Kris Williams points to the sign of the 20th Century Restaurant.

Jacob told us that he has driven past the 20th Century Restaurant many times. “It always seems to be full!”

One of my regulars at the Optimist Breakfast Club, Charlie, a construction worker, leaned back in his chair and looked at a pay phone on the wall. “It still works,” Sue told him. “But these days you have to use a credit card for it.”

“I’ve used that pay phone many times since before cell phones,” Charlie said, shaking his head. “I’ve built barns around here for the last 30 years. I’ve used it many, many times.”

We sit down at a table

Emily from Purdue Extension ordered a cheeseburger and fries and told us she was scheduled to work at the Indiana State Fair that weekend. “What are you doing there?” asked consultant Kris Williams. Kris had to add clever teasing to his usual questions, as several of our regular clients were in Europe or elsewhere busy with their real work.

“The skillathon of the dairy show.” Emily munched on a French fry. “I test the kids’ knowledge of the parts of cows and even do a taste test of cheeses. It’s fun!” The three gardeners compared their knowledge of small animals. But none of them had raised cows. They had experience with goats and chickens.

“But I would like to raise sheep,” Ginger Lily told us as she prepared her salad with onions and no cheese. “Not goats. They eat anything that comes into their mouths.”

Gardeners, especially those who care about their soil, care about the type of fertilizer their plants receive. Animal fertilizer types are important. Soil types are important. Purdue Extension can help you test your soil. If you want to find out what your soil is lacking, look online here.

Kris Williams added, “There’s another cool site that lists where you can find small local products too.” Check out Local Harvest here.

Satisfy our appetite

Jacob’s specialty is growing and selling native plants, including those that provide nectar and shelter for monarch butterflies and other insects, such as milkweed. “How big is your garden?” I asked as he worked on his enormous roast beef sandwich with brown gravy.

“It’s as big as my front patio,” Jacob laughed. “I just started my business this year. The porch is a great place to keep an eye on the plants. I’ve sold over 500 plants this year. Plants like blue sage and different types of milkweed.”

The stools look like they haven’t in many years.

I purchased Blazing Stars and Coreopsis from Jacob at the Barn 1880 in the spring and the plants have thrived even during the drought while I was away. Details of Chapman Lake Nursery can be found here.

“I also grow my own seedlings for Center Lake Park,” Ginger Lily smiled. “You should see my living room in the winter. Lots of plants and grow lights.” She told Jacob that Center Lake Park, which features more than 200 varieties of annuals and perennials, has a small area of native plants behind the other plants, including common milkweed, which monarch butterflies need.

“That’s how I got started,” Jacob told us. “With milkweed. Washington Elementary collects monarch eggs every year and I wanted to know where I could find milkweed to plant. I couldn’t find anyone selling them here, so I drove out and got seeds. My new job was more of a hobby at first.” I held half of my excellent BLT sourdough bread in one hand and tried to take notes with the other. “On September 7th I’ll be at another sale at Barn 1880,” Jacob told us.

Charlie was enjoying his hot ham and cheese Texas toast, but looked up. “Hey, the Optimist Club will be at the same sale of our fall pumpkins and squashes!” Charlie is the president of the Warsaw Optimist Club this year. Come see us both here at the Marker & Merchant Market.

“What exactly does the Optimist Club do?” Jacob finished the rest of his side salad, which was generously topped with cheese and croutons.

“We are raising money for the youth of Kosciusko County,” Charlie waved a French fry. “You are welcome to come visit us on Wednesday morning, and you can also send us a donation for our youth projects.”

Jacob has started a native garden for students at Lincoln Elementary. “The Watershed Foundation helped us with that,” he told us. “But I might do another one.”

Emily smiled when school projects were mentioned. Her husband is the principal of Tippecanoe Valley High School. “We go to a lot of events with our 8-month-old son,” Emily smiled. “If this is the only way I can see my husband, I’ll be at every event!” Cheers to all of our local teachers for whom the school year just started last Friday.

Harvest happiness

Sue Gantt, long-time waitress, shows the picture of Bob and Ann Brooks.

Sue returned with some framed black and white photos from years ago in the 1900s. “Bob still comes every day. He was sitting in the booth over there before you guys came.” She pointed to the same stools next to the same counter as in the photos. “I’ll never forget my first day working here. I was cutting up some lemons for water and Bob came over.” She passed the photo around. “He told me we’re a truck stop. We don’t use real lemons. We use truck stop lemons.” Bob meant the flavoring that comes in packets. She giggled and offered me the list of available cakes. “We have cherry pie, Dutch apple pie, butterscotch pie, sugar cream pie, I think coconut pie…” I ordered the cherry pie and highly recommend stopping by for a slice.

Jason took a break from cooking and told me how much he appreciated employees like Sue. “We’re very lucky to have had such great employees over the years. They’re like family. We have employees who have been with us for 5, 10, 15, even 20 years. Some still come in sometimes and help in the kitchen.” He paused. “Tyran Beer helped in the kitchen 50 years ago. She likes to remind me what a spoiled child I was. I like to remind her of how she looked after me and almost killed me.”

If you are looking for a place that will make you feel at home and comfortable, this is the place for you. We love 20th century and you will too.

Know of an interesting place, restaurant, nonprofit, or person you would like to see featured on Diners and Dives? Email Shari Benyousky at (email protected).